The rows of brightly wrapped candy bars stacked neatly on store shelves give no hint of what it took to get them there. And most shoppers would never pause to consider why their favorite bar–most likely made by Hershey or Mars–is at eye level, or even at the cash register.
The universe that the two biggest chocolate manufacturers inhabit–while extraordinary–is also secretive and, until now, impenetrable. Milton Hershey and Frank Mars started companies that by the end of the twentieth century would control 75 percent of the candy racks in a $14-billion candy market. From similar beginnings the two men worked, sometimes in cooperation with each other, to build two world-renowned corporations, now in all-out competition with each other.
Journalist Joel Glenn Brenner was assigned to write about Mars, Inc., for the Washington Post in 1989. The year it took her to convince Mars to allow her access to the company and the subsequent two years of research about Mars and the candy business inspired her to explore Hershey as thoroughly. The result is a fascinating account of two men, two corporations, and the world of chocolate.
Born into a poor Mennonite family in central Pennsylvania in the mid 1800s, Milton Hershey was apprenticed to a confectioner before beginning his own successful caramel-making business. By the turn of the century he was experimenting with chocolate. In the early 1900s Hershey finally conquered the problems in creating milk chocolate and the nickel Hershey bar became part of American history.
Frank Mars also came from poverty and began in the candy business while a young man. He started Mars, Inc., in 1922. After a family falling out, his son Forrest moved to Europe to begin his own candymaking company by studying chocolate in Switzerland. With the advent of World War II Forrest came back to the United States and eventually took control of his late father’s company.
And that is where the similarities end. Milton Hershey planned and built a community for his employees, now Hershey, Pa., where snow and garbage removal were free, rents were cheap, and mortgages easy to get. Among other things, he built a park, a swimming pool, and a restaurant. And he opened a school for poor, orphaned boys, now the richest orphanage in the world.
Forrest Mars Sr. concentrated solely on business. He developed a flat organizational system, still in use today, where every employee has the same size desk, everyone answers the phone personally, and everyone receives a 10 percent bonus for punctuality. Paychecks are tied to the company’s earnings; if profits go up, salaries go up, but if profits go down, so do salaries.
At the same time, though, employees were subject to Forrest’s personal tirades, including screaming, cursing, and public humiliation. A financial officer tells how Forrest once dumped his in-box on the floor because it wasn’t neat enough. Yet a woman who manufactures Starburst Fruit Chews for Mars says, “There isn’t another company that would treat me this well.”
Hershey and Mars are forever linked in history in some surprising ways. When the Mars company was producing Milky Ways, Snickers, and Three Musketeers in the 1930s, Frank Mars was buying his chocolate coating from Hershey. And when Forrest Mars Sr. needed a partner for his M&Ms in the 1940s he hired Bruce Murrie, the son of William Murrie, president of the Hershey Chocolate Company.
Since 1988 and the acquisition of the Peter Paul candy brand, Hershey has been seen as the American candy leader. Still family-owned by Forrest’s children, John, Forrest Jr., and Jackie, Mars is more successful in the international market. Brenner traces the modern market for both companies, including their noncandy lines. Mars owns Uncle Ben’s rice and Pedigree and Whiskas pet foods. For a time, Hershey owned the Friendly’s restaurants.
The survival for smaller candy companies in the shadow of these giants seems bleak. Nestle remains a strong presence, having recently acquired both England’s Rowntree and Italy’s Perugina chocolate companies. While there are now over 300 candy firms, it is estimated that through acquisition there will be fewer than 150 left by the year 2010.
Throughout the book Brenner skillfully weaves world history, empire-building, and eccentric personalities together, binding them with numerous confections. (Even the book pages are sprinkled with M&Ms and Hershey Kisses.)
This is an engaging read, not merely for people in the business world, but for anyone who wants to know how M&Ms get printed, or what the environmental impact is from harvesting cocoa, or why a product is introduced and then disappears so quickly (it is not always sales). The only way this book would be better would be if samples—I suggest a Snickers and a Hershey bar with almonds—were provided.
Originally appeared in the Greensboro (NC) News-Record.